The Okavango Delta is a spectacular paradise that can make driving challenging.
© Bill Given

A partnership of local guides that I know are starting a new mobile safari operation and they had discussions with me between October and January regarding marketing them to the North American market. However, we all wanted a face to face meeting to finalize details. During siesta time at Mapula Lodge, I headed north into the bush for a meeting under a tree that was part way to their villages. Arriving at this meeting location meant crossing water up to the hood of the vehicle on three occasions but we arrived right on time.

Botswana’s public parks and reserves have some of the highest wildlife densities and often deliver quality sightings like these African wild dogs that I saw hunt in Savute.
© Bill Given

Under the tree, we found a small table and chairs had been set up for our meeting complete with snacks and drinks and we were greeted by the three principals of the newly formed Superlative Tours and Safaris, a locally registered company. One of the founders is Olatotse, the recently re-elected District Councilman for the Gudigwa/Vumbura area, another is a longtime guide named Modumo who I was once guided by at Kwando Kwara camp. These two will be the head guides for this company.

The meeting began by standing one at a time and addressing the table of our intentions and then with formalities out of the way we remained seated and went over the details of this new operation, which I have agreed to market as a new product for The Wild Source. With these new partners I will be able to offer high quality mobile adventures within Botswana’s public parks and reserves at an excellent value rate of between $325 and $350 per person per night.

Public areas like Savute, Moremi, and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve contain some of Botswana’s highest wildlife densities making this a great value option for those who don’t want to pay a premium for private concessions. I am most excited that it will be possible to plan in cultural activities focused on the fascinating river bushman culture at Gudigwa giving these mobiles a very special extra wow.

Stuck in the Okavango Delta!

Dicks and Bill arrive back at Mapula Lodge with our clothes dripping wet following our self-rescue from the waters of the Delta.
Photo courtesy of Karen R.

Enthralled at having had such a productive meeting in the idyllic setting of the Okavango Delta, we headed back to Mapula Lodge as we would have a game drive with clients this afternoon. At our last high water crossing we became stuck! The tires ground down into the bottom of the Delta and all we could do now is self-rescue. Over the next hour Dicks and I would have to wade into the Delta’s waters jacking up one tire at a time and then walk onto an island and scavenge fallen trees to secure under each tire for traction. The water was at the bottom of our doors but to work under the tires required us to get wet up to our chins. It worked and we were able to back out to the other side of the channel and then create a new track to finally get to where we needed to be. We pulled in 10 minutes before our game drive to the cheers of clients who could see us in the water with binoculars from camp. It was the best commute from a meeting that I have ever had!

   

This is the second part of Wednesday's two part blog post about the flooding in Botswana. This posting deals with the flood's impact on local villages as well as safari experiences and safari camps.

The Botswana Flood of 2009 Has Wide Ranging Impacts.
Photo by Chrisophe Corteau FIA

What About the Impact on Local Villages and Tribes?

While the primary focus of this blog is on wildlife - I also like to emphasize the cultural aspects of safaris and believe strongly in supporting locally owned camps whenever possible - as well as interacting with local villagers when clients are interested in a more rounded cultural experience. Unfortunately, floods like this are difficult for some villages in the Northern Okavango Delta. Official tallies have approximately 4,000 people being displaced by flooding in March, with more likely to be displaced as floodwaters were still high from April - June. Botswana is contiunually working on improving its early warning systems to attempt to minimize impact to villagers in the future.

I Was Thinking About Going on a Botswana Safari... Should I Still Go?

The short answer is yes. If you are travelling to the Delta area through June, you may experience some minor inconveniences - as floodwaters may present some challenges for arriving at some of the game viewing locations. Camp owners are very resourceful however and will still have great access to the majority of game viewing locations (read about Mapula Lodge below). The bright side about choosing a June safari is that visitors get to witness an incredible 50 year phenomenon in the Delta.

As the waters recede and dry up in July through October, the animals will likely be fitter and healthier due to the abundant grasses. Certain species may be able to expand upon their more traditional ranges. Others may find new areas for food and water resources.

How Does a Camp Operate During the Flood? - A look at Botswana's Mapula Lodge...

Boats are a key mode of transportation at Mapula Lodge during the flood. I suspect that they will procure some boats to charter people between the lodge area (which remains dry) and the game drive area (which is also dry). They'll leave the game drive vehicles in the game area. The herds are likely to be huge in these areas.

The only lodge I'm aware of right now that has had to close due to flooding is Chobe Savanna Lodge. This is a temporary closure - and they may have even opened up their doors as I write this.

The Zambezi River above Victoria Falls has also had high floodwaters. I recently spoke with lodge owners in the vicinity who have had some floodwaters in their accommodations. But for these owners, it comes with the territory as this is the third time in 10 years that this has occurred in May. They're familiar with the process and should have their doors back open soon.

   

This is the first of a two part blog post about the Okavango Delta Flood of 2009. Bill put this post together before his Tanzania trip. I will be posting the second part of the blog post on Friday

The Okavango Delta is currently experiencing a once or maybe twice in a lifetime event - a 50 year flood. Torrential rains that fell in Angola work their way down to lower through Namibia and work their way down into the Okavango Delta. These seasonal floods usually occur at the end of April or the beginning of May each year in the northern portions of the Okavango Delta. The floodwaters travel at a relatively quick pace through the delta - averaging about 3 kilometers daily. By late June, the progress of the floods is halted by the extremely arid Botswana climate which dispatches of 95% of the water through evaporation.

April saw these floods reach 50 year highs. The floodwaters have subsided somewhat since then, but more peak flows were rumored to be on the way from the highlands of Angola. It is likely that the impact of this flood will in fact be somewhere between a 30 to 50 year flood for the Okavango Delta.

What About the Wildlife?

This blog is about primarily wildlife - so naturally a good question to ask is what happens to the wildlife (and game viewing) during historic floods like the one currently occurring in Botswana. A periodic flood like this is absolutely essential for th ehealth of the Delta. The flood provides a big boost to groundwater levels and it also initiates growth of new grasses within the flood plain. The net impact on wildlife is a positive one as sources of food become more available for herbivores. This abundance of nutrition works its way up the entire food chain and benefits all for this year, and perhaps longer.

One Possible Outcome of Flooding's Positive Effect on Wildlife

The Savuti Channel is located approximately 60 miles east of the Okavango Delta area and for the first time in nearly 30 years started flowing again. The current flooding may offer the opportunity for waters to make their way to Savuti Marsh - a wetland area that has the capability to support large herds of African Cape Buffalo through the dry season into November.

Friday's blog post delves more deeply into the flood. I'll be discussing the flood's impact on Local Villages and Tribes, Camp Owners, and Safari Goers. A flood like this has its destructive side to be sure, but it also offers a lot of opportunities to see things that you normally wouldn't have a chance to see.

   

The very rare sight of a baby albino elephant in the Okavango Delta has created quite a buzz. Albino elephants appear pinkish rather than white but this condition is thought to be a huge disadvantage due to susceptibility to the harsh African sun.

Fortunately for this young ele it lives in the perfect environment of the Okavango Delta where there is permanent water year round and ample mud to coat in. Hopefully this young elephant will quickly learn to protect its skin and do just fine. For many species albinism is considered a potential concealment issue making prey species easier to locate and making it harder for albino predator to approach undetected. As elephants do not rely on concealment this should not be an issue.

   

I have many people tell me they cannot do a safari because they do not want to spend their entire vacation driving in a vehicle. Of course virtually everyone returns from safari wishing they could have a few more game drives because each one really is different but I do believe diversity in all things is good and to that end I encourage people to include some varied activities to maximize their safari experience. To give a real life example of how a safari can include many activities outside of the vehicle this entry will be a brief recap of an eleven night Botswana safari undertaken by two my clients, Cathie and Jan, in December and they have been kind enough to allow me to use their photos.

Botswana Elephant Experience

Elephant Encounter! An entire morning spent walking in the company of three elephants, learning all things elephant from a touching distance. These three elephants were orphaned by culling operations and now serve as ambassadors for their wild brethren. I am very careful about recommending any type of animal interaction experience but this one is fantastic and ethical, providing the elephants with a good life of wandering the wild Okavango Delta daily and doing critical education work, see Living With Elephants for all the details. Guests of Baines Camp and Stanley’s Camp can arrange this experience.

Power Boating in the Okavango Delta

Power boating provides a unique perspective of the Okavango Delta and allows for its deep exploration. Kwara Camp features double decker boats that are used to achieve birds-eye views into extensive nesting colonies. This is also the best way to visit hippos and crocodiles in their element.

Horseback Safari

Horse Riding Safaris are an amazing way to approach closely to the grazing animals. One of the most thrilling moments for Cathie and Jan was galloping along side zebras and wildebeests on the move at Grassland Bushman Lodge. The horses here are very skilled and rides can be tailored for both novices and experts.

Mapula Game Walk

Game Walks are an essential safari experience taking you into the unfiltered wilderness. The animals can definitely look and feel different when your feet are on the ground and you have more time to learn about the little things that the vehicles zoom past.

Bushmen Prepare to Make a Fire

Bushman Cultural Experience. A morning food gathering walk with a community group of San bushmen people is an amazing window into our past way of life and an eye opener on how separated we have become from our natural world. A surprising amount of food can be found in the Kalahari desert and it also is unexpectedly tasty. This area at Grassland Bushman Lodge has long been known for its food productivity and the name for the area, Ghanzi, derives from a bushman word meaning land of the big bums, a term acknowledging the plentiful nature of food in the area.

Okavango Delta Mokoro Ride

Mokoro safaris are an essential part of a visit to the Okavango Delta. This is the traditional mode of travel in the region and is still in use by many local people. The feeling of sitting on the waters surface is surreal and provides a completely different view point of this unique ecosystem.

A full one third of Cathie and Jan’s activities were out of the vehicle resulting in a well-rounded safari full of surprises and different experiences. Of course they report being thrilled by their time inside the vehicle too, especially when in the company of roaring lions after dark!

Night Drive Lion